The Cook's Atelier

La Ferme de la Ruchotte

Yesterday was a picture-perfect day in Burgundy.  The sun was shining and the air was crisp and clean after a day of seasonal showers.  The sky was a brilliant shade of blue and it seemed to be the perfect excuse to take a drive in the country. Just minutes from the center of Beaune you'll find yourself in one of the most beautiful areas of the region.  As you drive down the country roads, you'll meander through the vineyards and little villages filled with stone houses and kitchen gardens and have an opportunity to experience a taste of rural France.

At the end of a lane, about twenty minutes outside Beaune just near the edge of the forest, you'll find La Ferme de la Ruchotte.  It is owned and operated by Frédéric and Eva Ménager who have restored the old farmhouse and raise heritage breeds of pigs, goats, lambs and chickens on their biodynamic farm. Monsieur Ménager is known for his advocacy and passionate support for the cause of real chicken, properly fed and reared.  As you enter the farm, ancient chicken breeds strut and share the space with a herd of black pigs, roaming freely in a field, rooting to find the perfect patch of mud.

As a cook, I am not much of a restaurant person.  I prefer to entertain at home with a group of friends or linger in the kitchen with a glass of wine and create my meals from the seasonal offerings at the market. However, there is one exception noted; the opportunity to sit down for a long, leisurely lunch prepared by a like-minded cook who is passionate about his ingredients and respects the animals that he raises.

As we entered the old farmhouse we were greeted by Madame Ménager and seated at the end of the long harvest table, lined with fall pumpkins, near the vintage wood-burning stove.  The menu was written on a slate board and included an aromatic pumpkin and apple soup, wild mushrooms that Monsieur Ménager's mother had delivered to the farm the day before, a perfectly roasted chicken with truffle risotto, local cheese and walnuts, and crêpes Suzette.

At La Ferme de la Ruchotte, the menus are always seasonal and created around the animals raised on the farm.  They serve lunch in the restored farmhouse for a maximum of 24 guests.  Much has been said lately about the problems with the industrial food system and the disconnection between the food that we eat.  I am a passionate supporter of the connection between the farmer and the cook and it is even better when the farmer IS the cook.  Take note, this is what responsible, truly local eating looks like.

La Ferme de la Ruchotte is located 15 kilometers to the north west of Beaune, between the villages of Bessy-en-Chaume and Bligny-sur-Ouche.  Lunch is served on Saturday and Sunday at 12:30 pm by reservation.

Fall market in Beaune

 

As a cook, it is difficult to pick a favorite season but the fall market in Beaune is certainly a favorite.  Fall is a beautiful time to visit France in general as the majority of the crowds have returned home and things are getting somewhat back to normal.  It gives you the opportunity to really have a chance to experience France as the French do, without all the tourists.

Every Saturday I stroll by my little brocante on the way to the market. Most Saturdays I am "good" and enjoy the thrill of the hunt and do not splurge unless I find something I simply can't live without.  Several months ago I came upon a beautiful soup tureen that I, regrettably, talked myself out of.  I've been disappointed ever since.  To make matters worse, I see it every day perched on a neighbor's windowsill as I take Lily for her morning walk.  As luck would have it, just this last Saturday, another one appeared and dare I say, I think it is even more lovely than the first one.  I have a thing for anything food related and my particular love is white ironstone.  I think it will pair nicely with an upcoming butternut squash soup I've been dreaming about.

With the chill in the air and the lovely heirloom apples in Monsieur Talmot's stall, I was inspired to preheat the oven and bake some classic French pastry. In France, you will find an apple tart in every window of every pâtisserie, but I prefer to spend the afternoon baking to welcome in the new season.  The classic apple tart in France is most often made with a purée of apples topped with sliced apples in a decorative fashion and it is usually coated with an apricot glaze.  For this tart, the purée is flavored with just a hint of vanilla and the top of the tart is brushed with butter and sprinkled with sugar so it comes out lightly caramelized but not too sweet.  It's the perfect dessert to celebrate fall.  Served with sweetened crème fraîche or whipped cream flavored with just a touch of Calvados, it just might be a slice of heaven.

apple tart

serves 6 to 8

1 9-inch partially baked tart shell, pâte sucrée recipe follows

3 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and sliced into even 1/8 inch slices

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

1 tablespoon sugar

for the apple purée

3  Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and diced

1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons butter

Preheat the oven to 375^o.

To make the apple purée, put the diced apples, vanilla pod, sugar and butter in a saucepan with 3 to 4 tablespoons of water.  Cook gently, stirring often until soft, adding more water if necessary, for about 10  to 15 minutes.

Use the tip of a knife to scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean, then discard the pod.  Transfer the mixture to a food mill or food processor and purée until smooth. Spread the purée evenly in the partially baked tart shell.  Carefully arrange the apple slices in a neat circle around the edge, they should be tightly overlapping but not squished together.  Depending on the size of your tart pan and the apples, you can repeat to create an inner circle or just fill in the center in a decorative pattern. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle over the sugar.

Bake in the preheated oven until just browned and tender, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

pâte sucrée

Makes enough for 2 tarts

1/4 cup heavy cream

2 large egg yolks

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

A pinch of sea salt

8 ounces unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Whisk the cream and the eggs together in a small bowl and set aside.  In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, salt and butter.  Using your fingers, incorporate the butter until you have a coarse meal.  Gradually add the cream and yolks, and mix until just combined.  Be careful not to overwork the dough.  Bring the dough together with your hands to incorporate completely.  Divide the dough in half, shape into disks, and wrap one of them to freeze and use later.

If the dough is soft, put it into the refrigerator for a few minutes prior to rolling. Place it on a lightly floured work surface, and sprinkle with a little bit of flour. Roll it into a 1/4-inch-thick circle, flouring as needed. Started at one side, roll and wrap the dough around the rolling pin to pick it up.  Unroll the dough over the 9-inch tart pan.  Gently press the dough into the pan, being careful not to stretch it as this will cause it to shrink when baking.  To remove the excess dough, work your way around the edge pinching off the excess dough with your fingers.  Chill for 1 hour before baking.

Pumpkin spice bread

The last days of summer flew by in a flash for me and it seems that by the time I finally caught my breath, we were already in the beginning of autumn.  The leaves are changing, there is a crispness to the air and you can smell the smoke from the neighbor's fireplace.  The markets are giving way to the last little bit of summer produce and are beginning to reflect the season with a showing of heirloom apples, sweet pears, Cinderella pumpkins, quince and wild mushrooms.

Fall, with is change in weather, is the the time to change your kitchen game plan. The season calls for a change in menus that feature much more hearty and substantial fare.  I enjoy cooking the classics, roasted chicken with potato purée and sauteed greens, boeuf bourguignon with homemade buttered egg noodles, pork roast with roasted apples and sage and braised rabbit with a creamy mustard sauce.  As the weather cools down, there is nothing quite as comforting as a pot of soup simmering on the stove or the aroma of a freshly baked apple tart.

It's been busy at The Cook's Atelier.  In addition to my cooking classes, I've been traveling quite a bit, visiting little villages and learning some regional dishes in the kitchens of local cooks along the way.  I've also been busy finalizing all of the little, last minute details for my daughter's wedding.  I been traveling from Beaune to Dijon to Grenoble and hit every little village market along the way - sometimes more than once.  I spent a day in the Les Halles de Lyon and enjoyed the best fruits de mer I think I have ever tasted.  I learned to make génépi des Alpes from my new son-in-law and I showed him the secret to making the best pâte sucrée.

Today was my first visit to the market since I've returned to Beaune.  Gone are the heirloom tomatoes, zucchini, peaches and apricots.  In their place, a beautiful assortment of squash, parsnips and hearty greens.  One of the most recognizable vegetables in the autumn market in France is a giant heirloom pumpkin.  It is a large, thick-fleshed pumpkin that looks exactly like the original old-fashioned illustrations of the magical coach in the Cinderella story.  It is a deep orange-red pumpkin that is flattened in shape with deep lobes that are perfect for slicing.  In the French market you simply tell your vendor how many people you will be serving and they will cut just the right portion for you.  This is a great pumpkin to use in baking and it also makes a classic puréed soup.  In the states, you can find these heirloom seeds by mail order at Renee's Garden to plant in next year's garden.

Each year, to celebrate the beginning of the season, one of the first things I bake is pumpkin spice bread.  I found this recipe in Food & Wine back in November of 1998 and I've been baking it ever since.  It's the perfect accompaniment to a cup of tea on a chilly fall afternoon.

There are some little surprises simmering in the kitchen at The Cook's Atelier.  I'm very excited and will be sharing the details very soon.

pumpkin spice bread

Adapted from Edna Lewis

Makes one 9-inch loaf

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, preferably organic

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups light brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup fresh or canned unsweetened pumpkin purée

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1/3 cup milk

Preheat the oven to 350^o.  Butter a 9-inch by 5-inch loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.  In a bowl, sift together the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and baking powder.

In a large bowl, beat the butter until creamy.  Gradually add the sugar and beat for 4 minutes.  Beat in the eggs, 1 at a time, then beat in the pumpkin purée.  Stir the vanilla into the milk.  Beat in the dry ingredients in 3 additions at low speed, alternating with the milk mixture.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan.  Bake for about 1 hour, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  Let the loaf cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto a rack to cool completely before slicing.

A country loaf

I am often asked why I choose to live in France and what makes France so special. For me,  I can only say it is my obsession with good and simple food.  Through my cooking classes and market tours, I enjoy sharing the knowledge that I have learned over the years about the connection to food that French people seem to have.  Unfortunately, for the most part, this is lacking in America.  Good food in France is not about recipes as much as it is about the quality of the ingredients. You eat what is in season here and what is fresh and local.  It's not a political statement or a new way of thinking, it is an everyday connection to the things that make life worth living; people you love, good food, good wine and the time to relax and enjoy it.  It is as simple as that.

Although each region has its own specific cuisine that it is known for, the real draw for me is the connection that French people have to the simple act of eating. They take their time, each meal is savored and never rushed.  The table is properly set, no eating in the car, and  most importantly, they know how to slow down and savor the things in life that truly count.  Things just taste better in France.  The focus is about real food, the artisan producers and the local cooks who create it.

On a recent visit to the Savoie, I had the pleasure of meeting Monsieur Michel Grange, an artisan bread baker from Bonne Nuit.  Bonne nuit, is French for "good night" and is one of a few little hamlets just outside the village of Valloire in the Rhône-Alpes region in southeastern France.  I spent my days researching artisan food producers in the area and was pleased to be able to visit with Monsieur Grange on more than one occasion.  After a short drive south on the curvy mountain road just outside Valloire, you will reach the boulangerie of Monsieur Grange.  It's not the typical boulangerie that you might be used to seeing on a visit to France.  There is no counter or display of fancy breads, no initial artfully created on the boule with flour, like those of a famous Parisian boulangerie.  This is rustic bread, made by hand, from a true artisan producer.

Monsieur Grange bakes his bread in a very small, one room, stone building located at the end of a country road.  There is a little sign posted over the door that reads "1892 four à Pain".  This translates to "1892 bread oven".  Simple and to the point.  The room is dark with the exception of a stream of sunlight coming through the only window and the glowing embers when he opens the door to the wood fired oven. Through the doorway, at the rear of the tiny, dirt-floored building, you can see the old oven, a stack of wood, a table, an old-fashioned scale, a few proofing buckets and rolls of linen he uses for proofing.

Now this is artisan bread making.  No whirl of a mixer or steam ovens here, Monsieur Grange makes every loaf by hand, weighing his ingredients on an old scale.  There isn't even electricity in the building.  He makes only one type of bread; pain d'alpage, an alpine country loaf, and only sells his bread on Wednesdays at noon.  He arrives very early in the morning to build the fire in the oven and returns late morning, when the embers have cooled to the correct temperature, to bake the bread.  The first morning that I met him, the bread was proofing on the table and he was preparing the bread for the oven.  I arrived early so I would have a chance to visit with him and watch him work.  Once the boules were proofed and ready to bake, he sliced a quick design on the top with an old paring knife, and slid them in the hot oven using a long handled bread peel aided by a family member holding a flashlight.  He was kind enough to let me photograph him while he worked and suggested that I return at noon to pick up my loaf of bread. As I arrived a few minutes after noon, Monsieur Grange was waiting patiently near his car for my return and politely pointed out, it was time for lunch.

On the following Wednesday, I returned just before noon in time to watch Monsieur Grange take the bread from the oven.  A small crowd was forming in anticipation.  I was amazed at the number of people who arrived to this little stone building, right at noon, to pick up their loaves of freshly baked bread.  All at once, Monsieur Grange quickly placed the warm loaves on the table, just outside the doorway and, within a few seconds, they were all gone.  There is no recipe to accompany this post as this bread was enjoyed at an impromptu picnic with local cheese and a drizzle of honey from the hives in the pasture across the lane.

I love visiting the little villages and seeking out the artisan food producers and local cooks who are best known for their preparation of a regional meal.  A meal that begins with seasonal ingredients and is prepared by cooks who take pleasure in slowing down and sharing the meal with people that they love.  In France, they take their food very seriously.  They enjoy the art of preparing a meal and the leisurely time it takes to eat it.  It's not about rushing or getting back to the office in an hour flat.  It's about taking time to reconnect with your family at the table.  This is done through preparing and cooking lunch and dinner each and every day.

As Americans, we should take note.

Preserved lemons

Keeping in the spirit of stocking the larder, I thought I would give you a recipe today for preserved lemons. They are a great addition to your larder and can be used in a variety of traditional Moroccan dishes or simply added to a risotto or pasta dish for a distinct lemon flavor.  Be sure to use coarse sea salt or kosher salt as it is important that the salt you use does not contain any additives.  Preserved lemons make a lovely hostess gift and will look absolutely charming on a shelf in your pantry.

preserved lemons

2 cups coarse sea salt

6 lemons, organic, plus a few for additional juice if needed

Wash and dry a 1-quart glass jar with a tight fitting lid.  Pour a layer of sea salt over the bottom and set aside.

Wash and scrub the lemons.  Over a bowl, cut the lemons in quarters, but don't go all the way through the stem end.  The idea is to keep the lemons whole.  Open the lemon and sprinkle the cut quarters generously with sea salt. Pack the lemons in the jar, in layers, sprinkling a thin layer of sea salt between each layer of lemons. Push the lemons down firmly as you pack them to express some of their juice. Finish with a final layer of salt.  Pour any juices that have collected in the bowl into the jar.  Cover the jar tightly.  Leave it at room temperature for a few days, while monitoring the level of the liquid in the jar.  After a few days, the lemons should be completely submerged in their juice.  If not, add more lemon juice.

The lemons are best after 3 months and will keep up to a year.  Preserved lemons do not require refrigeration, but I always keep mine in the fridge.

To use a preserved lemon, rinse the lemon to remove some of the salt and cut through the attached end. Use a paring knife to cut away all the lemon flesh and the pith from the yellow zest. Discard all but the zest. You may dice or julienne the zest and add it to salads, stews or grain dishes for a uniquely Moroccan flavor.  I especially enjoy it, blended with a little butter, as a condiment for grilled fish.

Stocking the larder

Things have been busy here at The Cook's Atelier.  In addition to my cooking classes, I've been fermenting heirloom tomato seeds for next year's garden, canning, pickling and enjoying the never-ending task of making jam.  The markets are in full swing and are bursting at the seams with the flavors of summer and it is difficult to control the urge to purchase one of everything.  On my list for this week's market were ingredients for duck rillettes; one of the classics of French charcuterie, sweet tiny strawberries for this week's jam, and a crate of organic peaches to make Alice's pickled peaches for my upcoming cooking class on charcuterie.  

As I left the market with my baskets filled to the brim, I spotted little cornichons at Madame Petit's table. Madame Petit is one of my favorite market vendors at the Saturday market in Beaune and the best place for fresh eggs.  Each week she brings a basket filled with eggs from the hens she keeps in her yard.  You have to arrive early though, so you don't miss out, as they are usually gone by 9 am.  In addition to her fresh eggs, she always has a few little baskets filled with things from her garden.  You never know quite what to expect.  Depending on the season, you might find blackberries, haricot verts, walnuts or a fresh rabbit from Monsieur Petit's morning hunt.  She was quick to spot my enthusiasm and scribbled down her recipe for pickled cornichons for me.  Needless to say, I added them to my list of kitchen projects for the week.

In an era when supermarket produce is no longer tied to the local seasons, we sometimes forget that prior to industrialized commercial food processing, it was necessary to stock your larder by preserving the bounty from your garden or local market.  The secret to your preserving success begins with quality, full flavored and seasonal produce.

Although we are enjoying the warm days of summer with light dinners alfresco and chilled rosé, it is time to begin stocking your larder so you can enjoy the flavors of your summer garden through the cold months of winter ahead.

If you would like to grow cornichons in your garden next year, click here.

Serve these lemon-scented, tart little pickles with homemade sausages and cheese or as an accompaniment to a slice of country-style pâté.

cornichons

inspired by Madame Petit

Makes 2 quarts

2 pounds cornichons

1 cup coarse sea salt

several springs of fresh thyme and tarragon

6 garlic cloves, peeled

bay leaf, one per jar

whole peppercorns, a pinch per jar

2 quarts distilled white vinegar, preferably organic

1/2-inch slice of lemon, preferably organic, one per jar

Wash the cornichons in several changes of cold water while rubbing them to remove the dirt from the garden and the prickly part of their skin.  Place them in a large colander and sprinkle them liberally with the course sea salt.  Toss to distribute the salt evenly and let them stand in the colander, in the sink or over a bowl, for two hours to drain.  The salt will help remove the moisture from the cornichons and allow them to soak up the brine.

Dry the cornichons with a clean, dry kitchen towel, leaving some of the salt. Transfer to clean jars. Arrange the cornichons, thyme, tarragon, garlic, bay leaf and whole peppercorns in each jar.  Heat the vinegar and pour it over the cornichons making sure to cover them completely.  Let cool completely, uncovered. Place a lemon on top of each jar and give it a shake or two.  Refrigerate at least 10 days.  You can give them a taste within the first few days, but keep in mind they will be quite tart at first but mellow as they absorb the brine. The cornichons will stay fresh for up to a month.  Keep refrigerated.

Farmstead cheese

I just recently returned from Valloire, a tiny mountain village located in the French Alps.  Specifically, it is located in the Savoie department in the Rhône-Alpes region in southeastern France.  The region is known for its pedigreed beef, wonderful milk, cream and cheese and is blessed with several artisan producers who are passionate about preserving the culinary traditions of the area.  The traditional food of the area is a "stick to your ribs" type of fare; think fondue, crusty breads, potatoes and artisan sausage served with wine from the region or a glass of cold beer.

My days were spent visiting the little hamlets in the area and enjoying picnics near the river on the green slopes just outside the little village.  The sky was bright blue and the ground was covered with an amazing assortment of wild flowers.  All was quiet except for the  distant sound of the bells on the sheep while they grazed just up the hill.  To say it was picturesque is an understatement.  There are plenty of well maintained little potagers dotting the countryside as well as little patches dedicated to the art of keeping bees.  They have a weekly market in Valloire that surrounds the beautiful baroque style church in the center of the village that features artisan sausage makers, regional cheese from the area such as Beaufort (cow), Chevrotin (goat) and Reblochon, made from raw cow's milk and honey made from the wild alpine flowers.

It was during this visit that I had the pleasure of meeting Monsieur Christophe Traviegnet, the cheese maker at La Ferme du Pré Clos.  By definition, farmstead cheese is a type of artisan cheese that is made traditionally from milk from the producer's own herd of cows, sheep or goats.  Artisan cheese is made by hand using the craftsmanship of skilled cheese makers and the taste of the cheese reflects the care of the cheese maker as well as the terrior of where it is produced.  

I arrived at the creamery mid-morning to a little crowd already gathered who were interested in learning more about the art of making cheese. We tasted fresh cow's milk from that morning's milking as we sampled an assortment of cheese made on the farm.  On the day I visited, M. Traviegnet was making a Tomme cheese. Tomme is a type of cheese, and is a generic name given to a class of cheese produced mainly in the French Alps.  They are normally produced from the skim milk left over after the cream has been removed to produce butter and richer cheeses.  I spent the morning with him as he worked and I can honestly say this was one of the best mornings of my trip.  It is exciting to meet people who are so passionate about what they do and who are dedicated to the preservation of culinary traditions.

Things around here have a natural order to them.  People do what they love and they seem to be connected to the land.  It's very local, not just a saying or a movement, it's just the way it is.  After finishing his morning making cheese, M. Traviegnet drained off the remaining whey and returned it to the milk buckets and mentioned that he would be giving it to his pigs.  It's a great example of sustainabilty and coming full-circle on the farm.

Thanks to a new generation of farmstead cheese makers, traditional cheese making is becoming more and more popular in America and many come to France to learn their trade.  Be sure to seek out the artisan cheese makers in your local market and do your part to help preserve this culinary tradition.

Marinated fresh goat cheese

Marinating goat cheese will give it more flavor.  It is the perfect accompaniment for rustic bread or a green salad from your garden.

Small fresh goat cheeses, approximately  2 ounces each

Extra-virgin olive oil, preferably organic

Pink peppercorns

Fresh thyme

Place the cheeses in a jar and add the oil to cover.  Add the peppercorns and thyme to taste.  Cover the jar tightly and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.  It is important to keep the cheese completely submerged in the olive oil.  You may use the olive oil in the dressing for the salad.

Aïoli

It is said that every cloud has a silver lining.  Given our current economic situation, wouldn't it be great if that silver lining came in the form of people taking time to get reconnected with their food and maybe even spend a little time learning how to cook?

As a cook, I have been a long-time supporter of shopping at my local farmers' market, cooking with the seasons and the philosophy behind the growing sustainable movement.  I believe that life truly is in the details and that the decisions we make really do make a difference.  I am inspired by the number of urban gardeners getting back to the simple tasks of growing their own vegetables or making the decision to keep chickens in their backyard.  I think we just might be onto something good.

Digging in the dirt and growing just a little something for your table will help you get reconnected to your food and improve your cooking.  At the same time, you'll be doing something good for your health and the health of your community.  Your garden doesn't have to be big, a few pots or a window box is all that you really need to get started.  If you're not quite ready to build your own chicken coop, just be sure to purchase your eggs from your local farmers' market.  You might be paying just a little more, but you'll know that you are making a difference in your community by supporting your local farmers.  Good food doesn't have to be fancy or difficult to prepare.  It is all about the quality of the ingredients.  So support your local farmers' markets, cook with the seasons, and try your hand at a little organic gardening.

When thinking of the perfect recipe to submit with the post, I decided on one of my all time favorites:  Aïoli with fresh garden herbs.  The egg is from my local market, raised in a sustainable way, the herbs are from my kitchen garden, and aïoli is the perfect accompaniment to any vegetable from your summer garden. Most importantly, I hope it inspires you to spend a little time learning how to cook and get back to the basics of good and simple food.

Aïoli with fresh garden herbs

2 small cloves of garlic

pinch of sea salt

1 egg yolk

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 lemon, for juicing

herbs from the garden, such as chives, basil, parsley, chopped

In marble mortar with a wooden pestle, pound the garlic and the salt to a smooth, liquid paste.  Add the egg yolk and stir briskly with the pestle until they lighten in color.  Begin to add the olive oil in a tiny trickle, to the side of the mortar so that the oil flows gradually into the yolk mixture, while stirring constantly with the pestle.  As the mixture begins to thicken, the flow of oil can be increased to a thick thread.  If the mixture gets too thick, add a drop or two of water.  Add the juice of the lemon and the herbs. Taste for seasoning.

Makes about 1 cup

Apricot confiture

I woke up this morning to the church bells ringing and a quiet summer rain falling on the trees just outside my open window and thought about how I would spend my Independence Day.  It is Saturday so first on the list of course, was the market. 

Sometimes when I visit the market, I end up with far more fruits and vegetables than I can possibly use.  I'm like a kid in a candy store, I'm drawn to the beautiful colors and the smells of the produce that fill the baskets of the market vendors' stalls.  It's real food and it's in season right now.  The markets in France make it easy to shop with the seasons.  Just by looking at the rows of tables lined up at the market, you can quickly see what is at its peak and in season.  It's unfortunate that our industrialized food system in the states has blurred the natural seasons of fruits and vegetables.  For the sake of convenience of produce year round, we have forgotten about the importance of cooking with the seasons and are left with fruits and vegetables that lack the fragrance and taste of perfectly ripe produce, picked in season.

Apricots are at the their peak in June and will be gone before you know it.  So to take advantage of the season's bounty before it slips away, I'll be making jam. One of my very favorite tasks when I studied under Anne Willan at LaVarenne, was making jam.  Anne and I would walk around her 2 hectare garden in the mornings to plan the menus for the day and if the fruit was ready, the task of making jam was added to the to-do list.

Apricot jam is one of the easiest jams to make because apricots have a medium amount of pectin so they do not tend to underset or overset.  Jam making is a tradition well worth keeping when produce is in season to extend a little bit of summer all year long.  

There will be no firework displays, no backyard barbecue for this American in France, but in keeping with the celebration of our Independence, I am thankful for life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness.

Enjoy your weekend everyone.

Jam-making equipment

Jam pan

Although you can prepare fruit in an ordinary large saucepan, a special jam pan will make the process easier.  Jam pans are wider at the top than the bottom, which makes the evaporation process much quicker than a normal saucepan.  The key to making great jam is to cook the fruit quickly so the fruit retains its bright color.

Jars

You will need mason jars in suitable sizes.  I particularly love the sweet miniature versions of the "Le Parfait" spring-lidded jars.  The jars and lids (but not the screw on bands) must be sterilized before use - either in the dishwasher or submerged in a large saucepan full of water brought to a simmer. Leave the jars and lids in the hot water until you are ready to fill them.

Water canner

You can use a large stock pot that will accommodate several mason jars.  It should have a lid and a rack for the jars to rest on.

Other equipment

A wide-mouth funnel is helpful for pouring preserves into the jars.  You will also need tongs, to remove the hot jars from the water canner.  Depending on the number of jars, it is also helpful to have dishtowels at the ready to slip between the jars while in the canner to prevent them from banging together while they process.

Processing

Remove the sterilized jar from the hot water and fill it with the preserves, leaving 1/4 to 1/2 inch space at the top.  Remove any air bubbles with a spatula.  Place a lid on top, and screw on the band (not too tightly). Repeat with the other jams, and place them in the stock pot.  Fill the stock pot with water to cover the jars by at least 1 inch.  Cover the canner with the lid, bring the water to a full boil, and leave for 15 minutes.

Remove the jars from the water using the tongs, and place them on a folded towel. Leave them for at least 12 hours and the test the seal by removing the band and attempting to lift the lid.  If you cannot lift the lid with your fingers, the seal is secure.  Replace the bands, label the jars, and store them in a cool, dark, dry place.

Note:  The canning jars in the states have an bubble in the center of the lid. When the jars are sealed properly, it will indent.  

Apricot confiture [kawn-fee-TYOOR] French for "jam" or "preserves"

1 kg apricots, just ripe

700 g granulated sugar

1/4 cup of water

1 lemon, juiced

Place a few small saucers in the freezer to use to check the setting point.

Cut the apricots in half and remove the pits.  Reserve four or five pits, and discard the rest.  Cut the apricots into 1-inch pieces.  Wrap the pits in a kitchen towel, and hit them with a hammer to break the hard outer shell, but keeping the soft inner seed, which resembles an almond, in tack.  

Note:  In France, the apricot pits are used in confections and confiture for flavoring.  Remove them from the jam before ladling them into the jars as the are poisonous if eaten.

In a large heavy-bottomed pot or jam pan, combine the apricots, sugar, soft inner seeds and water.  Stir to combine.

Bring to a boil, stirring constantly.  Cook, stirring occasionally with a long wooden spoon and skimming foam as necessary, until reduced and thickened, about 15 minutes.  Stir in the lemon juice.  Test the jam when the juice has thickened and the bubbles are large.  The setting point has been reached when a drop placed on a chilled saucer forms a skin that is visible when lightly pushed. Remove from the heat and ladle into dry, warm jars and process as normal.

Rustic apricot tart

Apricots are one of my favorite spring fruits.   I try to enjoy these lovely stone fruit as much as possible while they are in season and they are at their peak in June. In addition to eating them on their own, they make a very nice dessert baked as a rustic tart, served with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream and drizzled with a little local honey from the market.

The recipe for this tart is so simple and really relies on the quality of the ingredients because there is little to disguise any flaws.  When choosing apricots at the market look for those that are fragrant and have a little red blush on their skin.  Apricots won't continue to ripen after they are picked, so avoid those with a greenish tint. In addition to apricots for this tart, you could also use French prune plums.  They are small, oblong purple-skinned plums that come to the market in late August and September.

With this recipe, it is important to remember to preheat your oven and have the pastry rolled out, fitted in the tart pan, and chilling in the freezer before the fruit is cut up and combined with the sugar so you can assemble the tart quickly.  If the fruit sits, it gives up a lot of juice, which can keep the pastry from baking properly.

Rustic apricot tart

for the crust

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, preferably organic

large pinch of sea salt

7 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits

4 to 5 tablespoons ice water

In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt and blend with a fork.  Add the butter. Using your fingers, incorporate the butter until you have a coarse meal and no pieces of butter are bigger than a large pea. Gradually add the ice water just until moist clumps form.  If you pick up a handful of the dough and squeeze it, it should hold together.  Be careful not to overwork the dough.  Bring the dough together with your hands to form a ball, and press it into a disk.  Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface, and sprinkle with a little bit of flour.  Roll it into a 1/4-inch-thick circle, flouring as needed.  Starting at one side, roll and wrap the dough around the rolling pin to pick it up. Unroll the dough over the 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom.  Gently press the dough into the pan, being careful not to stretch it as this will cause it to shrink when baking.  To remove the excess dough, work your way around the edge pinching off the excess dough with your fingers.  Put the tart shell into the freezer while you prepare the fruit.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

for the filling

About 1 pound small, fragrant, firm-ripe apricots

Heaping 1/2 cup of sugar

1/2 vanilla bean

2 pinches of sea salt

Cut the apricots in half, remove the pits and then cut each half in half again.  Slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, and use a paring knife to scrape out the seeds. Put the apricots in a large bowl, and toss them gently with the sugar, vanilla and salt.  

to assemble

Remove the tart shell from the freezer and quickly arrange the fruit inside, cut side up, in concentric circles. Scrape any remaining sugar mixture left in the bowl over the fruit.

Transfer the tart tin to a baking sheet and bake it in the bottom third of the preheated oven until the pastry is golden and the fruit is cooked through, 50 to 60 minutes.  

Place the tart on a rack to cool.  Serve at room temperature with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream, crème fraîche or whipped cream.

Serves 6 to 8